Prática Como usar o lápis no Desenho Realista Charles Laveso

What's up? Welcome to one more Our video here on youtube channel and today I want to show in practice the respect to the use of pencils, the position of the use of pencils to achieve a smoother and more precise result in the realistic draw. In fact, the video prior to this, I dealt with this subject, but in a very only really speaking how the thing works, like I do, like that I indicate the best way to achieve this kind of result. But there, in the comments, a lot of people asked me to show it in the practice, so I'm making this video to really show what it's like to The way I work with my pencils, of the kind of tip that I leave to be able achieve a smoother result, more accurate in the shading and thus to get a cleaner job. It is worth remembering that we have a virtual course realistic drawing and you want to know more, just click on link in the description of that video. If you like this video here, leave your like, sign up for our channel and it helps to share this has grown a lot in recent times. Another thing, during the video you will see that I point the pencil with a pencil sharpener crank and lots of people come here in my channel and you do not know that I have a physical disability, I do not have the forearm Right, so when it's time for me to see I'll put my arm and many people who do not know, will wonder and talk: What he is doing and what is this and such? Only a physical disability that does not stop me to do the work that I do. Stay with us in this video that will be really cool. Come on! Well, here I want to start by showing a that is the cutting edge style that most designers use, or at least least the people who are starting to draw, which is this tip most worn, pointed with a stylus and producing a thicker stroke and at the same time rustic. I want to explain a little bit what I mean with rustic. When I I refer to this form of shading, the rustic What I say is when it gets grainy. You realize you get white dots in the middle of the shade, and these white dots are the pores of the paper than the pencil, because it has the thick, does not penetrate these pores of paper. It's the same if I take a pencil with thinner tip and use it lying down, because when I use it lying down, the tip also is not penetrating the paper, in the holes of the paper, and it ends up getting porous too. This porous word, or rustic, in this case, refers to the pores of the paper that becomes grainy, then these three words I use a lot and that basically means the same thing, that is a porous design, a rustic design, or a grainy drawing, I mean the same thing, that looks like this. Usually, if you realize, most of the artistic drawings which are made with dashes faster and lighter shading, they look more rustic, because it is not smudged, and when it is it vanishes, that is, when it passes a blur, or some tool to blur the drawing, it loses this characteristic of traits, that is, it is not that this here is wrong, it is a style of shading different from what people realistic drawing. In the drawing realistic, I need, or prefer, to work with the pencil more standing, or rather, in the same position I'm using this one here. This shadow that I did, I did with him in foot, but because it has a tip very thick, does not penetrate into the pores of the paper. If I take this same pencil and make in it a more sharp, like that, and work with him on same position, standing, notice how it looks, notice how it looks less porous. Then you say: Ah, but this one it's another pencil Actually, this pencil here is a bit harder because he is a HB pencil, but I'll get that other B pencil, which is the same as I was doing here, I'll point him out and I'll use this tip. and with it standing, for you to see the result that people reach. Well here, to point him I'll use the sharpener of Derwent's crank, I use a lot of this brand, or the mark Cis, and that pointer, is the next, have to pull, it hangs and then, these two ears are where you go put the pencil. The pencil will come in. here, and when you start to turn the crank, all this mechanism pushes the pencil, press the pencil inside, pushing him, and inside he has the whole structure that is rotating and taking excess of wood and graphite, leaving a sharp point. Come on. I'll pull you to see how this works in practice. Well, I pulled it here, now I'll put the tip and turn. Quickly! Look at the tip he makes, see Very sharp. Look at the difference of this tip for a of the factory. This is the pencil when is new, it comes with that tip. A normal pointer, those of deposit, the ones you use the ones you wear at school. He makes the tip similar to this one, blue. This one of crank makes that other tip, looks at the difference, not only in size, but also at the angle, it gets more pointy and with that I have more the shading. Let's continue then. Now, with that same pencil, pointed, it's the same pencil as I I made this shade here, I'm going to do next, with him more standing, and here has another trick: If I go back and forth, the way I I am doing, it produces an effect (note this here) less porous than the other, but still porous. And if I do, instead of coming and going, I do in a single position, just going up, for example, and then I come braiding, laying the pencil a little, tilting the trace further, but all in one direction, never coming and going, just coming or just coming, but always in a single direction, fix how it much less porous, see? So everything depends on how you use pencils; the direction you make; the tip she it has to be always very sharp and, preferably in the same position as you uses for writing. If I pick up a pencil harder, like a Staedtler H, for example, this is still less porous here. Let's look closer here. This is already a harder pencil. So, what happens; because he is harder, and consequently more clearly, I can force him a little more than he it will not get dark. And also for being harder, will knead (or flatten) even more the granulate of the paper, causing penetration better the graphite in the pores, which the granules of paper, granulation of paper, Notice how much more homogeneous it is. So, for me, the best position of use the pencil, it is in the same position which is used for writing, and always light. One exercise you can do is, pick up a pencil H or HB, starts a dash darker and brighter, with him standing. To make this shading lighter, many times, make him lie down, holding the pencil here behind and doing with him lying down, you can do very light, only you will agree with me that if you hold the pencil with your hand more distant from the tip, less precision you will have in the trace. You get lightness, and if it is a large region, a design, you can even do this, but in parts that require precision, it is that you work with more pencils standing, because with him standing, if you have control of the lightness of the hand, you will have, in addition to lightness, you will have precision to do small details like skin pores, like some thread, some texture, everything becomes more precise. Another thing legal to understand is also that when you get a shading, sometimes, at the time you start, the impression is kind of strange, because he everything is scrawled. Only you have to understand that it is a process of construction, that is, you have to go back and forth in that same space, going back and forth, sometimes reversing a little, only tilting the direction of the trace, braiding the traces between them and forming a more homogeneous texture. This will close and cause a softness, without leaving a scribbled pencil. And if you go, you get a piece of toilet paper, sombreira, stays straight. This role I am using here is the role Hahnemuhle Nostalgie, I'll leave the link in the video description if you want to meet It's important for you to go playing with these pencils, no necessarily of that Mitsubishi brand, I use Staedtler a lot, This one, for example, 5B this is HB, which is already more used, It's already over this is 5B, only minor, of so much which I use because it is softer. And I I also use my drawings a lot pencil 0.5, with graphite 4B, which has a dark and soft trace. And she leaves a porous texture, so it is important, When you work with the pencil in a paper that is pororo, it's cool to use a HB pencil, for example, because then, you leave the texture a little flatter and then you come with the pencil on top. Let me give you an example; here I used the pencil H and I did not even collapse there. So what makes it appear that it does not get so grainy, It's because when I pass the the bottom was white here, so the pores remain white. Here the pores are already gray, so when I pass the pencil, remains porous, but because the pores be gray, they do not look so white and do not emphasize as much as this. So it's cool, and you? make a background, and then, if you want, pass the blur, the brush, toilet paper, this may be the subject of a another video, where I can show you what each produces. Notice how it looks homogeneous, we get a a very good result. OK? Well, that's it. I hope you have liked this video, if you liked, let Your like there, sign up for our channel. and leave your comments, giving suggestions of new videos that we may be recording, to clarify the doubt of the galley that is getting into realistic drawing. A big hug and even