Today I'm working on this front wing of this Mitsubishi Eclipse which has a nasty dent right on the body line using only paintless dent removal I'm going to restore this wing back to its original shape without using any filler or paint Hi everyone its Jake here from 1st Track Dents and welcome back for another paintless dent repair video, so as you've already seen in the intro we're working on this nasty body line crease on the driver's side front wing of this Mitsubishi Eclipse so I'm going to do things a little bit differently today I had an email a couple of weeks ago from Steve Barden who owns Dapper PDR who supplies PDR tools which are handcrafted here in the UK now Steve was watching some of my YouTube videos on my YouTube channel and noticed I don't ever use a blending hammer or a wooden paddle for tapping down any high areas or crowns, now this is true because I don't own either of these tools most of you watch my channel will notice that I'm always using my handle shaft of my hammer and my normal regular tap downs when I'm doing any kind of tap down work so Steve sent me a challenge this being that I must only use his tools for any tap down work in my next repair video so I accepted this challenge and Steve kindly said these tools over to see if I could do it.... So you've seen the tools now the only thing left to do is to put my normal tap down tools aside which I'm so used to using and it's gonna really feel strange using different tools for any of my my tap down work and I'm really gonna be out of my comfort zone now to make the job even more challenging or simpler I'm only going to allow myself to use one PDR bar in this repair and that's going to be my Ultra Dent screw on tip bar with these four tips right let's see how I got on. So before I complete this challenge let's take a closer look at this dent we can see that the dent falls right on the body line and that's its deepest point has displaced the body line profile at least 15 millimeters looking at the head-on view here we can see we have quite a large crown on the bottom of the dent here we also have another crown at the top section of the dent - which is a bit smaller and sharper the blue area here shows the total size of the low area and the yellow section here illustrates the sharpest and deepest parts of this dent the width of the dent is about 220 millimetres and the height is around 200 millimetres the last thing to mention is the minor scratch on the body line edge which I will polish off at the end of the repair now instead of going up through the wheel arch to get on the back of this dent I decided to take a look under the bonnet to see if there was any access in from the top a lot of modern cars now have some space at the top of the inner panel and luckily this car had some really good access to the rear of the dent as you can see here as we've all my jobs that I've carried out lately there's a little bit of rain in the air so I thought it'd be best to put the umbrella up to keep the panel dry next I attach my LED light board in the right position so I can get a good view of the dent from the angle I'm going to be working from so as I mentioned before I'm only using my Ultra double bend tool and the first tip I'm going to use is this large rubber tip before I start pushing I first need to warm the panel up in order to prevent cracking the paint especially on a cold day like today now a little tip here when using part of the bodywork to lever off it's a good idea to protect it from damage so I'm using a soft microfiber cloth here to protect the paintwork so once that's in place I can feed the bar down into the space at the back of the wing using this tip I'm pushing out as much of the metal as I can without pushing too hard to stretch the metal having the leverage points so close to the dent allows me to give a lot of force onto the back of this damage and as you can see quite a large bulk of the dent has come up already so the first tip I'm going to use for the roughing up stage is my stand a rubber tip as shown here again as the panel is really cold I need to put a lot of heat into this area sliding the bar into position I start to work on straightening the body line profile and some of the tight areas in the middle of this dent okay so I'm using the first tap down tool from my tool challenge I'm using the round wooden tap down with this round ended nylon tip I'm also using for the first time the Doppler Slapper which is the wooden paddle as I'm tapping down these high spots here the first thing I notice is the huge reduction in noise has the leather on the face of the wooden paddle absorbs a lot of the noise from the impact when striking the knockdown and so far both tools are making light work and removing the high areas I'm now going to start roughing out the top section at this dent so I'm moving my life into a different position as this crease of the top section is quite tight I'm going in with my vinyl plastic tip now pushing the tight dent out on the cold panel like this would surely crack the paint so the use of heat is really important here so I insert the bar and get my body into the correct position then using the tip on the back of the dent I move up and down this shop low gradually pushing all of this dent out as the metal is quite tight it moves up slightly higher than the level of the panel to level this panel back down I'm going to use the other wooden knockdown with the plastic bullet tip again I'm using the Slapper Tapper to strike the knockdown and as before you can hear the sound is nicely dampened this tool also has a nice weight to it which makes it very easy to use. Slowly but surely the high areas are being removed and the panel is becoming level again okay I'm only about a third way into this repair now and this is where I'm up to so far, most of the shape is already back although there is a lot more to be done right so this is the next section I'm going to work on as you can see we have these low areas here marked in yellow and to the right of it we have this large soft crown shown here in red as before I'm going to heat this area up to prevent cracking the paint then using my screw and tip bar with a rubber tip I slide this down the gap at the top of the wing here I'm using this tip to gradually bring out all the low areas which I just highlighted as you can see all these low sections are slowly coming back up I'm now moving back up to the top section of the panel again to remove the other low section so first I'm using heat again before going in behind I'm using the vinyl plastic tip again as this tip is more suited to this type of dent as you can see I'm pushing up all the smaller areas including the section of the body line which is still seen a slightly low I'm using the wooden tap down with a bullet tip to remove all of the sharp high spots I'm now going to concentrate on the high crowns so I'm moving over to the other side of the panel this is the largest of the crowns to knock down shown here in red, so for this I'm going to be using the Dapper Tapper blending hammer. now because this blending hammer has a nice long handle it allows me to stand quite far back so I'm gonna get a really good view of this crown so I'm just slowly working this crown back down again taking my time not to make any wrong movements that could see me putting any dents back into the panel although I don't normally use a blending hammer this hammer really easy to use and has a nice balance to it which allows me to gradually bring this crown back down again I'm also using the plastic bullet tip again on the wooden knock down to tap down some of the sharper high points so a quick review at the halfway stage shows that the panel is much more level although there are still a few minor lows and highs left to deal with so I'm now moving the light back around to the other side once again so I'm going to tap this crown on the upper section shown here in red I decided to use his large flat screw on tip here although after a few attempts it just wasn't working out so I decided to switch to this smaller flat plastic tip as it should be able to make better contact with his crown I slowly worked this crown from side to side and gradually it completely disappeared now for all the fine detail work I'm switching up to my root beer tip as this is a really hard tip and will prevent putting in any sharp high spots into the paint surface as you can see on the lower section here all the main damage is out now all we have left is a series of micro lows and micro highs in the surface of the panel so first I push up all the micro lows easily using the rootbeer tip I then use the plastic bullet tip to tap down all the micro highs and as you can see this wooden paddle is getting a lot of use, now some of the small high areas are difficult to see close up so I'm moving the light board further back to see them better and I'm using the plastic bullet tip on the blending hammer to knock these down again the last bit of fine-tuning to be done is on the top section so I'm going in behind with my sharp root bit and I'm gradually bringing up all the fine micro lows in this top section, there are quite a few so it takes a fair bit of patience to carry out and similar to what I did on the lower section I'm using the wooden tap down with a plastic bullet tip to remove all the sharp micro highs. lastly i'm using the blending hammer to remove the final high areas from the panel the last thing to do is to remove the minor paint scratch which is sitting right on the body line to do this I use a fine piece of p2000 wet and dry paper followed up by a piece of p3000 trizact then using my polisher I apply a very small amount of 3m Fast Cut compound onto the mop head I then work this into the panel to remove the scratch completely after a quick wipe down with a microfiber cloth the scratch is completely gone. Next using a small amount of Ultrafine polish I polished the panel back up again this helps to restore the panel's deep rich shine so the last thing to do to remove the cloth I was using earlier when pushing behind next I can close up on it to check out THE FINAL RESULT... Well I think that was challenge completed and the results I think speak for themselves and as you saw I only use these tools for all the tap down work and I can honestly say for someone like me is quite set in their way of using their traditional tap down tools it was difficult first to try and get my head around something new but quite quickly I've got two grips of these and it felt I've been using these tools for years so I'll certainly be using these in future repairs now if you are interested in getting your hands on any of these tools then I'll leave a link to Steve's website and his Facebook page in the description below and just to mention they are available in a choice of either UK or USA tooltip' thread sizes so last thing say is thanks again for watching and coming along on this repair if you like the video then it would be great to get a thumbs up and if you aren't subscribed already click that subscribe button and don't forget to click the notification bell to be kept in touch with all the latest videos, that's all for now thanks again for watching and I'll see you all on the next video!