Hand Plane 刨子 Traditional Chinese Woodworking Tool

hello everyone today I want to show you how to make this traditional Chinese woodworking hand plane now I've got the idea of this hand plane from a video that I saw of a Chinese master making a plane very similar to this one so if you're interesting watching that video go ahead and follow the link in the description he also had other Chinese woodworking tools and I thought there's about seven that I wanted to make so I hope this will be the first of seven different Chinese woodworking tools that I will make for myself and hope to share the process with you I started the project by squaring off a piece cherry as well as a piece of roses the cherries for the top staple and his little software easier to work with and the rosewood is for this so the plane is also stable but it's also very hard this laminated block is about 24 inches long eventually I cut it down to 15 inches because I realized a lot of my large planes just collect dust so I've laid out all the parts of the plane here and all the places I need to cut out on the top and also on the bottom here the details of it is in a link in the description exactly how to make all the measurements the only thing I'll mention here is that the Chinese playing one of the distinguishing features is that the the blade is offset from Center so so the front of the plane will look bigger than the back of the plane chopping out the throat is definitely the most time consuming as well as the most tedious part of this project so as I was talking in the middle out I remember from recent video that I should cut this handle hole out first otherwise there's a good chance that whole thing will blow apart as I've been cutting it if I had this middle part cut out first so I didn't dig very far but I'm go ahead and then Mark out the handle position and chop it out not that they handle holes finished is time to get back onto the throat so periodically I would check make sure that the betting annual is at 45 degrees when opening the mouth I recommend to go nice and slow because if you rush like I did you're likely to make a mistake and crack open the sole and have to make it repair once the mouth is open to the proper size is now time to turn my attention to the wedge mortise to open up the wedge mortise I'm pushing the blade of the saw against the bed so that I could really follow that angle the second cut here is not that critical as long as the two sides are symmetrical you should be okay if you don't have a pole saw like the one I used in the previous shot a hacksaw should work just as good all right so I finished cutting this part here and I'm gonna try to fit the blade now I haven't tried it yet so I got a blade here I've taken the chip breaker off I don't need this part to do this initial fitting so I need to do is so you just go in there real tight slide it in so I'm about a centimeter from getting this thing all the way in and looking from back here it looks like this eye is rising up slightly so I'm gonna back this out and to back the plane out so hopefully you can see that as the blade was trying to go in it sort of dug on to the side that's fine but here it's get caught on this piece here and to sticking in so it's causing it to rise up on this side all rhyme and to get the blade in there and it's laying flat against the back here and a 45 degree angle but as you can see the mouth is too small so I think I need to move this over at least two millimeter because it's almost accomodate a chip breaker once the wedge quarters was opened up to the correct size decided to go ahead and make a temporary wedge I made this watch from a piece of basswood my goal was to use this piece of basswood wedge to do the rough sizing and then make a better wedge later that's what is great for rough sizing because it is such an easy woodwork but it's very soft very easy to carve and that's important to get a nice and tight fitted wedge inside the wedge mortise I trimmed this wedge slowly and I tested it often until I got a good fit between plain iron in the body all right so this is the fit in there it's okay I think I think is enough to get this thing going I got this piece of soft pine set up here the blade is not sharp so to use this you simply make sure this is in there tight move blade forward by tapping the iron down and over the back or loose by tapping the back of the so when you tap behind it this thing gets loose [Music] Piper French check your blade position can you change anything it's really dull let's see though you should take nine shavings off of this this time is pretty soft you don't want the dable we're getting some shavings there you go I think it'll work I think it's time now to get the to make this thing look a little bit prettier but have a handle made somewhere so I made this handle and it's close to fitting a little bit big so I'm gonna get this handle fitted in this thing right he's worked off to do the final shaping I still haven't cleared out the nobody bellows the trough I guess the front part of the plane before the shavings come out of the handle should fit tightly because a loose handle could cause blisters one piece of advice I would give is to not pull on the handle with her face over the handle because I got smack in the face and I had video footage to remind me of that once I caught out the cheeks the major parts of the plane itself is finished what's left is cosmetics as well as some adjustments to make the plane more comfortable to use nice now I'm ready do the final shaping here I've marked the center line along the top here let's do next is mark a nose line here I'm putting this line at 80 degrees so we look something like this with a slant in here and the slant out there I'm going to do most of the roughing outs with an axe and axe is actually a in a real part of Chinese woodworking there's an old saying that a dull ax is faster than a smart saw after the rough shaping was completed I went on to use a rasp and a file to do the finer shaping and finally smooth it down to about 320 grit and after a couple of coats of linseed oil the plane is ready to go the standard way of holding this plane to grasp it by the handle with the index finger on the side and the thumb behind the iron they can be overlapped or they could be parallel and you're basically controlling the up-and-down motion with your finger and your palm or in our muscle when entering a cut push it down with the index finger when you finish new cut push down with the film one thing I really like about this plane is that I can use two hands to push in a symmetrical fashion really this plane can be used by pushing or pulling with or without the handle well everyone that's about wraps up this project I hope you enjoyed it the next project I wanted to do is a Chinese frame saw and it looks a lot like a German or European French saw but it's used very differently so if you want to keep up with the sort of projects I'm working on in my studio go ahead and follow me on Twitter and thank you for stopping by and I hope to see you next time [Music]